Eat This: Fried Bologna, Obviously

If sandwiches were rated by the number of napkins you go through when you’re eating them, like fires are rated by alarms, than the fried bologna sandwich served at lunch at the newish Divisadero restaurant Brenda’s Meat and Three would be a five-napkin sandwich. A thick slice of fried bologna from local German outfit Saag’s — more meatier and interesting than the Oscar Meyer slices of youth, though with the same rounded, salty flavor — is snuggled between soft buns and slathered with a goodly amount of pimento cheese spread. Tomato and pickle slices add textural and flavorful counterpoints to the onslaught of cheese and meat. The sandwich will fall apart within a few minutes of biting in and you will certainly get the tangy orange sauce all over your fingers and face, but like most holdovers from childhood, the appeal of this food is primitive and lasting.

Brenda’s Meat and Three

919 Divisadero, 926-8657,